How do you root a weeping fig?

According to this site, it sounds pretty darn easy.

The site is:

http://www.bonsai-bci.com/species/ficus....

and it says this:

Propagation: One of the easiest plant to root from cuttings; although the specifics for maximum success vary with species, it's always worth sticking them into soil for the heck of it, unless you're already overrun with baby Ficus! My success rate, doing nothing special except an initial dose of Superthirve, is at least 80%. Very large diameter cuttings of Ficus can be successfully rooted. Air-layering is also quite easy. Ficus can be grown from seed, but require heat and humidity, and easily succumb to mold. I recommend growing from seed only if you desire a rare Ficus that can't be purchased easily.



Another site offers this advice:

Terminal Cuttings



The most common method of propagating house plants commercially is using terminal or tip cuttings. This type of cutting consists of a piece of stem with one or more buds. This technique could be used on vining plants such as pothos, philodendron, grape ivy, and some peperomias. It is also used for other house plants such as weeping fig, pileas, wax begonias, geraniums, most cacti and succulents, and a host of other plants. The ideal terminal cutting is a healthy 2 to 4" long cutting with four to six leaves. Terminal cuttings should not be allowed to wilt after they are removed from the plant. Remove the cutting by making a cut just below a node (the point where leaves are attached). Remove the lowest group of leaves and insert the cutting into moist, sterile potting soil. This propagation method is commonly called the “rooting bag” technique. The rooting bag method works well for nearly all house plants. Several cuttings of several different species may be placed in the same container or just one species may be inserted in the pot.



When propagating most plants, it is a good idea to use more than one cutting. For example, when rooting a philodendron pot, stick six to ten cuttings in the pot, not just one. This gives more growing points and ensures a fuller pot in less time. Once the cuttings are in place, stick a coat hanger bent in the shape of an inverted “U” into the pot to support the plastic bag. The plastic bag should be clear, or nearly so, and large enough to enclose the flower pot. A bread bag works well. The rooting bag should be placed in a warm area that receives good light but not direct sun. Once the bag is sealed, the container need not be reopened until the cuttings have rooted. This usually takes four to six weeks. Rooting hormones, available at most garden centers, speeds the rooting process but are not a requirement for house plant propagation.



Sometimes getting as many cuttings as possible from a parent plant is desirable. This can be done by using the “single eye” technique. Plants with alternate leaf arrangement, such as the philodendron, pothos, and nephthytis, can be rooted by taking a piece of stem an inch or two long with a leaf attached. The stem will root, and the bud at the base of the leaf will form the new shoot. By making a cluster of six to ten of these single-eye cuttings, it is possible to have an attractive pot in short order.



That site is at:

http://coop.co.pinellas.fl.us/Commhort/p...